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Old 10-25-2009, 10:41 AM   #1
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EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

First of all, Feel free to share this and my "EMGlad's- Make your own recycled longies pattern". Sew longies, sell 'em if you want. teach others. I didn't invent sewing OR pattern making
And besides, the longies I sell are made from a highly tested master pattern

Before you start, Please read through the whole process and get familiar with what you'll be doing.

Sweater buying tips:

The sweater doesn't HAVE to be all wool. It should be 80% though, and only blended with non-absorbent fibers like polyester or nylon or other animal fibers like angora (NO cotton, rayon etc).

100% Merino is the best find, it's absorbent, felts great and is really soft.

Cashmere is NOT wool, it's goat. It's not designed by nature to hold lanolin well, don't buy 100% cashmere (20% is okay though).

If you don't want to mess with hemming the legs, get a sweater where you can set the bottom of the pattern right at the bottom edge of the sweater.

After felting, most wool isn't springy enough for a waistband (even the ribbing part at the bottom), yours might be, but don't blame me if it gets all stretched out and falls off his/her butt. I like to buy an uber-stretchy blend sweater (up to 40%) that won't be felted, in a cute matchy color. It doesn't have to be thick like the main body sweater. Or get your hands on a little interlock.

Don't buy a cute sweater that is:

a bit scratchy (your LO will hate this and couldn't care less about cuteness, they may refuse to wear it!)

a junior's size (they are the cutest, I know, but unless you have a preemie, felting will shrink it too much and it's already small)

a thinner wool blend (blends don't felt up as thickly as 100% wool)

Okay, sewing time.

1. Cut out your two main body pieces and lay them with the good sides facing together. Line all the corners up and clean up any uneven bits.


2. Get that other stretchy sweater or wool interlock and cut a strip about twice as tall as you want the waistband to be (it'll be folded over in half) and as long as you've got (you can usually use leftover bits for soaker leg cuffs later). Wrap it around your subject's waist gently but snugly and mark it. You don't need to add a seam allowance because stretching and sewing it to the pants portion makes it looser then you remembered


3. Now back to the main pieces with their right sides facing in. Put in a few pins from the pointy crotch part to the waist on both sides. Always try to work from the inner portions towards the edges, it helps everything line up better. Sew from the crotch to waist on both sides. I know I didn't use pins here, my serger would eat them. I assume most mamas are using a regular machine, where running over pins is usually fine. You can pull the pins as they get to your presser foot though.


4. When you lay your new seems together, you can see they are already looking like pants! Now the pointy crotch part makes sense....


5. With those crotch seams together, pin down the legs. And again, work from the in to the out. Start a couple of inches behind the crotch seam and sew over it towards the ankle, don't forget to backstitch well at the end, if longies ever come apart, it's at the bottom seam. Flip the pants and repeat, starting a couple of inches behind the crotch seam again.


6. When you're done, you should have 4" of double-stitched crotch and strong finished ankle seams.


7. Now get your waistband piece. pin it together. (I'm mostly allergic to using pins, but I want your pieces to line up so I'm making an exception). Sew across where you've pinned.


8. After sewing, fold it over. It should look like this.


9. the next few steps will show you how to "quarter" your waistband so that the finished longies are not stretched on one side and scrunched on the other, not attractive.... Place a pin at the seam, this will be at baby's back. Add another directly across from the first, this will be at baby's tummy. Like this


10. whilst you still have your pants inside out, tuck the pinned waist band inside facing down. Line up the waistband seam with the back seam and pin together (you can tell it's the back if you used my pattern tutorial because it's 2" longer then the front). Line up the front pants seam with the front waistband pin. hold at that spot while you pull the pin and stick it through all layers.


11. Lay your pants down with the front seam directly over the back seam. Now you'll be able to find the hip portions of the waistband and pin. Now your waist band is separated into 4 even parts. still using the seams as a guide, find the pant's hip and pin it to the waist band.


12. Here's what it should look like now, all pinned and ready for sewing.


13. Start sewing at the back seam and stretch the waistband so that it lies flat against the pants as you go.


13. Woo hoo! you did it!


14. Quartering the waist and starting at the back seam helps everything line up nicely.


15. and an action shot. I was making a 2t size and the sweater was a little short.. I made up for it by shortening the rise and making the waistband a little wider then usual. It was either that or high-waters....

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Last edited by EMGlad; 10-25-2009 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 10-25-2009, 11:10 AM   #2
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Re: EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

GREAT tute mama!! Thank you!
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:42 PM   #3
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Re: EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

Awesome! I never though to sew the crotch seams first and then the pants legs. I always do it the other way, and it's a pitb to get around that round crotch seam for me (with my serger). Thanks!
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:49 PM   #4
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Re: EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

Great tutorial - thanks!
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Old 03-15-2010, 10:45 PM   #5
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Re: EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

Since my baby girl decided to PL last year, I haven't been making many longies/soakers except here and there for a local natural foods store. I have a surplus of wool sweater parts hogging craft room space. Mostly stretchy blend stuff for waistbands and nb/small pieces of wool sleeves, sweater bodies, etc, but some larger bits. If anyone is interested in sewing up their own stuff, PM me. I don't really want to take pics of everything (there's 5 boxes full). But if you want a particular color scheme, I'm game for some cheap FR boxes o' wool. LMK.
P.S. I have a strict no scratchy policy (my kids are quality control), so don't worry.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:04 AM   #6
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Re: EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

thanks this is wonderful. These wil be my first pants ever so wish me luck! I will let you know later how it goes and if I have any questions. thanks again
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:06 AM   #7
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Re: EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

EMGlad I would love a box of boyish colros of the stretchy stuff for waistbands. The ones I am making today will just have to be folded over with elastic. will that work also?
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:47 PM   #8
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Re: EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

Subbing 'cause these look incredible!!!
Just my type...

Ever made shorties or a skirty w/ this pattern?
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Old 04-05-2010, 05:27 PM   #9
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Re: EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

I think elastic works fine for some babies. A couple of mine were heavy wetters and anything wool with elastic had to be washed WAY more often because the elastic would soak after 2 or 3 wearings it and doesn't "self-clean" like the wool. I love 80/20 blends for waists. Perfect balance of stretch and air out-ablity. That is mostly what I have lying around here.
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:30 PM   #10
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Re: EMGlad's- Sew your own recycled longies

subbing, having issues with waistband, not finding a good material to use. could you use flannel for the waistband?
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